Being in the stream, bring the boom alongside with the head forward, and reeve a spare piece of rope studding-sail halliards if at hand , through the sheave-holes in each end, a sufficient number of times, and make it fast.
Man the heel-rope, and rig the boom out, until the shoulders are just forward of the bowsprit end. This band is fitted with eyes on each side and underneath for the jib-guys and martingale. The foot-ropes are fitted with eyes in their outer ends which seize to the jib-guys close to the shackle on the band. The foot-ropes are then stopped out to the guys, that on the starboard side for a sufficient distance to keep it clear of the flying jib-boom.
Turks-heads are worked on the foot-ropes at equal distances, to keep the men from slipping on account of the inclination, or steeve , of the boom. The inner ends of the foot-ropes are formed into eyes which are seized to the upper bolts in the bowsprit cap after the jib-boom has been rigged out.
Thus fitted, the foot-ropes should be long enough to allow the men who go on the boom to stand with the lower parts of their breasts against it. Reeve the jibstay through the inner sheave-hole of the boom end. Sway the dolphin-striker to its place by means of a tackle from the bowsprit cap and a whip from the jib-boom end and hook it to its eye-bolt; shackle to it the lower end of the jib-martingale and the back-ropes.
Place the jib-guys. Unreeve the heel-rope, set up the jib-guys, when ready, and the jib-martingale, the latter being set up by pulling on the back-ropes. Lastly, set up the jib-stay. The jib-netting is made of ratline stuff, with 6-inch meshes, and laces to the guys and whiskers. Whiskers are swayed on board with a tackle from the forward swifter.
A whisker is got into place ready for rigging by means of a jigger from the fore-topmast stay, hooked to a strap about one-third the length of the whisker from its outer end, and another jigger from the bowsprit cap to its inner end.
When far enough out the whisker is hooked to a bolt in the bees. When hooked, put on the jib guy, which is fitted with a neat eye to o over the whisker end, and then the whisker jumper. When the flying-jib-boom has been placed and rigged, the flying-jib-guys are rove through a hole in the whisker, or through a thimble strapped with wire rope to the whisker, outside of all, thimble on top.
Jib and flying-jib guys set up to the bows, or cathead, with three scored hearts. The whisker being rigged, slack the stay jiggers, which serve as lifts, and haul on the jib-guys to bring the whiskers athwartship.
For detail of rigging on whisker, see Plate 51, Fig. Topgallant Masts. Get the topgallant-mast on board by means of the mast rope. Hook the topgallant top-block to a bolt in the topmast cap, and reeve the mast rope first through the block, then through the thimble of a stout lizard, the tail of which is hitched in the royal sheave-hole; lastly, through the sheave in the heel, and cast an overhand knot in the end, or hitch it around the mast to its own part.
When the topgallant mast is on board, and up and down forward of the lower mast, secure it there temporarily by a lashing around the head from the lower stay collar, passed clear of the mast rope; cast off the hitch in the end of the mast rope and carry the standing part aloft, hitching it to a bolt in the topmast cap, on the side opposite to where the block is hooked.
Set taut the mast rope, cast off the stop at the stay collar and sway the mast aloft, bending a tripping-line to a bolt in the heel to guy the mast clear on its passage up.
Point the head of the royal-mast and sway it up three or four feet above the topmast cap, taking off the lizard, which is now of no further use. When the topsail yard is in its place, the gate , a broad iron. The gate is closed as soon as the heel has cleared the topsail yard, and the swinging end secured with a pin.
Lash a stout girt-line block to the topmast cap on each side, and send down the ends of the whips abaft all for the jack and funnel, fitted in one, Fig. The rim of the funnel is rounded off to prevent chafe. A grommet fitted on the funnel acts as a bolster for the rigging. Land the funnel on the topmast cap, lash it temporarily, lower on the mast rope till the royal mast-head is about flush with the cap; cast off the girtline and place the funnel.
Sway up again on the mast rope and point the royal mast-head well clear of the funnel. Then with the girtline from the cap, sway aloft and get over the stays and rigging in the following order:.
First, Fore-topgallant stay. Second, Flying-jib stay. Third, Shrouds. Fourth, Back stays. A clump-block seized between the topgallant shrouds, below the eye, is for the topgallant lift. Pass the ends of the topgallant shrouds over the futtock staffs, and thence into the top, where they are to be set up with hearts.
Do not clamp these shrouds into the horns of the cross-trees until swayed aloft, as it gives just so much more gear to overhaul. The mast can be steadied sufficiently, until fidded, by the fore and aft stay and back stays.
Take the back stays to the channels, and reeve the fore and aft stay through its sheave in the jib-boom. Royal Rigging. Send up by means of the girt-line at the topmast cap the royal band, with the rigging fitted upon it as described in the previous chapter. Place the band on the mast-head, Fig. A small clump-block for the royal lift is seized in between the shroud and back stay, below the band. When the mast is fidded and the flying-jib-boom is rigged out and clamped see below , set up the stays, back stays and shrouds with jiggers, not forgetting to clamp the topgallant shrouds in the horns of the cross-trees before setting up.
The Jib and Flying-Jib Stay reeve through the inner sheaves or holes in their respective booms. The Main Topgallant Stay reeves through a hole in the after-part of the fore-cap, setting up in the fore-top. During continued exercises in sending up and down topgallant-masts this stay is frequently led down to the deck, abaft the fore-mast. The Main Royal Stay reeves now through the after chock of the fore-topmast cross-trees, so that if the foretopgallant-mast goes the main royal-mast is not in danger.
In sending up topgallant-masts the main can be stayed without waiting for the fore. Sets up in the fore-top. The Mizzen Topgallant Stay reeves over a small roller in the after-part of the main-cap. Sets up in the main-top. The Mizzen Royal Stay leads through a sheave in the after chock of the main-topmast trestle-trees, and down into the main-top. Sway it on board with a span, as directed for the jib-boom, and rest it on the head-rail ready for going out.
Hang the heel by a slip rope from the fore-topmast stays, reeve off the heel rope through a block secured to the jib-guy, through the sheave in the heel of the boom, securing the end to the neck of the wythe. Pull out on the heel rope and point the end of the flying-jib-boom through the wythe, with the shoulders clear of the jib-boom end.
Put on the head of the flying-jib-boom, the band of iron fitted with eyes for the flying-jib guys on each side, and one eye underneath for the flying martingale. Reeve the end of the flying martingale through a sheave in the end of the dolphin striker, and the guys through the holes or thimbles at the whisker-boom ends.
Reeve also the flying-jib and fore-royal stays in their respective sheaves, and under the cleats on the dolphin striker. Seize the foot ropes to the shackles for the flying-jib guys, stopping them out a short distance to the guys, and seize the inner ends when the boom is rigged out to the jib guys.
Rig out, taking off the slip rope from the fore-topmast stays, clamp the heel to the side of the cap, unreeve the heel rope. Set up the flying-jib martingale, then the fore and aft stays, lastly the royal back stays, shrouds, and flying-jib guys.
Observe that in staying all masts the stay is usually set up first and then the back-stays, if any, and lastly, the shrouds. Topsail Yards. Having towed the yard off to the ship, say on the port side with the starboard yard-arm.
Hook the port pendant tackle also to a strap on the after-quarter, and man it and the hawser taken to the capstan , swaying the yard on board, which must be kept from canting aft against the mast by means of a purchase or guy leading from forward. Now cast off the hawser and tackle and prepare for rigging. It is customary to place the fore-topsail-yard in the port gangway for rigging, and the main-topsail-yard in the starboard. Quarter Blocks are iron-strapped, with friction-rollers, shackled to bands on the quarters of the yard, underneath.
In case of accident compelling the use of a rope strap, it should be single with lashing eyes. There should be separate bands and blocks for the clewlines, as shown in Fig. If not, the quarter block is either double for the topgallant sheet and topsail clewline, or treble, if the topsail reef tackle leads under the yard.
Burton Straps. Iron bands a few feet inside of the yard-arms, with an eye in the upper part to which the top burton may be hooked. Bolt for Bead-Earing , Fig. A bolt on the forward side of the yard, just inside the shoulder and well up on the yard; or it may be an eye in the shoulder band.
Backer for Head-Earing , Fig. For backer, see Fig. Jack Stays for bending are of rod iron, those for reefing, on the topsail yard, may be of wire rope, rove through staples abaft the bending jack-stay on the upper part of the yard, outer ends going over the yard-arm with eyes, the inner ends set up to each other in the slings by means of small eye-lashings.
A rod iron jack-stay often replaces it. Foot Rope. These are of hemp, fitted with an eye going over the yard-arm. They are wormed and the splice served. The neck of the splice lies a little abaft the top of the yard, so as to be clear of the topgallant sheets. Foot-ropes are fitted rove through the stirrups, and the ends taken abaft the mast when the yard is crossed , and secured to the opposite quarters on top, by means of an eye-lashing passed over the yard, round on the forward side, underneath, up, and back through the eye again, a sufficient number of times; after which two half hitches are taken around all parts to secure the end.
This plan of fitting them is recommended, on account of the facility with which the men can get on and off the yard. Inner ends of foot-ropes omitted in Fig. Stirrups are fitted with an eye in the lower end no thimble , through which the foot-rope reeves and to which it is seized. The upper ends, fitted with small eyes, are seized to the jack-stay staples. Flemish Horses. These are spliced around a thimble on the pacific iron for that purpose, and the eye in the other end secured on top of the yard to the jack-stay, the length of the yardarm inside of the sheave hole, with a rose-seizing.
It would be better, as is already done on some modern ships, to do away with the flemish horses by carrying out the foot-rope to the pacific iron, fitting the necessary extra stirrups. Tye Blocks are iron-strapped and connected by a bolt to a band around the slings of the yard; or, in case of two tyes, the tye-blocks shackle to bands fitted at the slings, at a distance apart equal to the diameter of the topmast.
The bands are joined by a span, which is used for the purchase to hook in when sending the yard up and down. In case of an accident to the straps of tye-blocks, requiring them to be fitted with rope-straps, it is well to remember that two single straps are needed to make the block stand fair on the yard. A parrel fitted of wire rope is commonly used.
This consists of a long and a short leg, leathered singly, marled together, and again leathered in the wake of. Now that all this gear is differently fitted, a separate outboard foot-rope is superfluous, and is going out of use.
Eyes are spliced into the ends of the two legs, and stout quarter seizings placed on both close to the eyes of the short leg. The long leg then passes around the quarter of the yard, half the diameter of the topmast from the centre, and secures to the short one by a rose-seizing on the upper after side.
When the yard is crossed the remaining leg is passed on the opposite side and secured in the same manner. There are additional seizings through holes in the jaws to keep the parrel in place. In time these parrels will probably be replaced by an iron cylinder, sliding up and down the topmast, to which the topsail yard is secured by a truss similar to the one on the lower yard. This cylinder, or tub , keeps the yard well trussed to, and its lower edge is low enough to keep the yard off the cap.
Brace Blocks. Iron-strapped, with friction-rollers, and shackle to the after-bolts in the shoulder-band, block sheave standing up and down. In case of accident to the strap or bolt, use a grommet strap around the yard, single strap around the block, the two straps connected by lock thimbles.
Lifts are four-stranded, hemp, and blacked. Hook to the shoulder-band, reeve through lower sheave of a sister block seized in between the swifter and next shroud in the topmast rigging, just below the eyes, thence to the top, where they turn up through clump blocks. Set up with jiggers. Jewel Blocks. Single, rope or iron-strapped, hook to the pacific iron with sister hooks. Not put in place until the studding sail gear is rove off.
Flexible wire rope. The lower end has a thimble spliced in, to which hooks the fly-block. Passing through the mast-head gin-blocks, they reeve through the tye-block on the yard from out, in , thence up through the topmast trestle-trees, and made fast around the mast-head. The heel of the topgallant-mast is scored out on purpose to admit the tye. Small ships have a single tye only, which in this case reeves through a sheave in the topmast, in stead of a gin-block. The length of the tyes should be such that the fly-blocks will be square with the lower cap when the yard is down.
Hook a stout double purchase from the topmast-head to the tye-band or a strap in the slings of the yard, Fig. In former times nearly all of the above described fittings were of rope.
Overhaul the top-burtons from aloft, and hook them to the yard-arms; as also a fore-and-aft tackle to the slings to keep the yard from chafing against the mast, as it goes up.
Man the purchase and walk away, taking through the slack of the starboard-burton, keeping control of the port or lower yard-arm, and placing a mat under it to prevent injury to the deck.
As soon as the upper yard-arm is well up and clear of the lower stay, commence crossing by keeping to the slack of the fore-and-aft tackle, hauling on the lower burton and starboard brace.
Reeve the lifts through the sister-blocks, and as the yard rises above the lower cap, square it; bring to and pass the parrel. Reeve the tyes, hook the fly-block with the halliards rove, and take the strain from the burtons and purchase, which may now be unhooked, and the latter sent down, together with the fore-and-aft tackle. Observe, lastly, to place a block of wood between the slings and lower cap, to keep the yard from bowing, in case the halliards should be slacked or let go; or, as sometimes practised in large ships, have a midship-lift fitted, of such a length as not to permit the yard to touch the cap.
Lower Yards. Of the many methods suggested for getting a lower yard on board, the following may be selected as the safest and most seamanlike:. The yard is towed alongside, on the starboard side, with the port end forward. Top up the fish-boom, Fig. Swing the boom around to the starboard side with the usual forward and after guys.
Should there be no sheave in the boom, as at A, lash a block at that point. Lash together two large single blocks, as at B and C. Reeve a pendant through A and B, securing the outboard end to the head of the boom, and take a turn with the other end of the pendant at the sheet bitts.
Through the block C reeve a hawser, make fast to the bight above C the lower block of a treble purchase from the topmast-head. The other end of the hawser is secured at the slings of the yard, and stopped along the port yard-arm to the pacific iron, with rope stops.
Protect the hammock rail where the yard is to be landed by blocking up in the netting above the level of the rail. When ready, tow the after starboard yard-arm out from the ship, keep it end on to the vessel with a guy from forward. Walk away with the treble purchase, and as the. Use, in addition, a fore-and-aft tackle, and thwartship jiggers to assist in placing the yard across the nettings. Plate There may be two additional bands, one en each side, for preventer slings, or for the jeer-blocks, if the latter shackle to the yard instead of lashing.
The Chain-slings are sent aloft by one of the top-burtons, and fit over the lower cap in a saddle for the purpose, or they may be fitted with two shackles that secure to the eyes of a crescent, bolted over the cap. A back-lashing abaft the mast, about one-third the doublings from the mast-head, keeps the strain on the slings in a vertical direction. Iron bands, outside the sling-bands, to which the arms of the truss are secured. Backer and Staple for Head-earing. There is usually an eye in the shoulder-band for the head-earing.
In its absence, a grommet strap of small rope is put on the yard-arm first , with a thimble seized in on top. Backer of rope plaited, fitted similar to the one on topsail yard. Lifts , are four-stranded, hemp, blacked. In large ships they are rove as luffs, with the double block at the cap, and single block hooking to the shoulder-band.
The standing part hooks to the breech of the yard-arm block, or to a bolt on the shoulder-band. In smaller vessels the lift is a gun-tackle purchase, the standing part hooking to the breech of the upper block. Lower lift blocks at the cap are of iron, the fore usually has additional sheaves the after ones for the lower boom topping lift. The end of the lift on deck is turned up around a thimble, into which a double or lighter purchase is hooked.
Iron strapped, with friction-rollers, hook to shoulder-band, sheave up and down. Quarter-Blocks for the topsail-sheets, are iron-strapped and shackle to the band, underneath the yard,. There were no precautions necessary, except as above stated in protecting the netting. The ship was in port, at Hong Kong, the waistboats remained hoisted, and the gangway ladder shipped.
The spar, feet long and weighing nearly 10 tons, was landed on board inside of 20 minutes. In the absence of the fish-boom, use any suitable spar as an outrigger. In case of accident to the strap or bolt, seize the quarter-block into a doubled grommet-strap with a round seizing, the bights being secured to the yard on top by a rose-seizing. Clew-Garnet-Blocks , Plate 36, are iron-strapped with friction-rollers, and hook to a band around the yard, being forward and inside of the quarter-blocks.
They should be fitted with a link or swivel. In case of accident requiring them to be rope-strapped, use single strap with lashing eyes, the latter seized together on top of the yard. Quarter-Irons , Fig. Boom Irons for the same spars are keyed to the ends of the pacific-irons, and fitted with a roller in the lower part. Iron bands with eyes at top, fitted to the yard inside the sheave for topsail sheets. Jackstays , both for bending and reefing, are of iron, the former with staples, the latter passing through eye-bolts on the yard above the bending jack-stay.
Foot Ropes. Fitted similar to those on the topsail yard; the outer end hooks to the shoulder-band, Fig. The foot-ropes cross forward of the mast, each inner end secured to the opposite arm of the truss and seized to the arm on its own side.
The two foot-ropes are seized together where they cross. In either case, hook both top-burtons to the burton-straps on the yard, and reeve and man the braces and lifts-the latter rove single until the yard is aloft. Keep the yard clear of the mast by a fore-and-aft tackle. The jeers are two double better treble purchases, the upper blocks in small vessels being secured permanently to the chain slings aloft. The lower blocks lash around the yard on either side of the slings; the upper blocks hang by long lashings or chain slings from the lower cap, over the forward part of the top rim.
The cross-jack yard differs somewhat in its fittings from the fore and main, as no sail is set upon it. The braces hook to a band well inside the shoulders, so that the brace which leads forward may clear the main topmast back-stays.
The lower yard is sometimes taken first in order, in rigging ship, but by sending the topsail-yards up first, time may be saved. The yard being alongside, sway it on board with the yard-rope, rove through the sheave-hole in the topgallant-masthead, hooking it to the slings, and stopping it down to the forward yard-arm.
An iron band around the center of the yard, with a link for the hooks on the yard-rope. A grommet on each side of the slings fits around the yard and the jaws, a score being cut in the latter.
Both grommets are leathered, and are seized to form eyes abaft, abreast the opening of the jaws. A third grommet strap, also leathered, is seized to one of the eyes, and, when the yard is crossed, passes around the mast, and lashes to the other eye. In port, exercising, a single lashing is substituted for the third grommet-strap. Instead of the first two grommets there might be eyes in the jaws, but these foul in sending the yard up and down, and are liable to get knocked out.
If the topgallant-yard is not provided with jaws the parrel is formed as above, or with a long and short grommet. The larger strap is long enough to go around the yard and meet the short one, being secured by a lashing of small stuff.
Both straps leathered. Quarter Blocks. On that ship we also used jute for the ratlines. Hemp was also used for for standing rigging and it would be tarred.
Learning the ropes is an expression still used today and has passed into everyday language. For the apprentice seaman he learned as he went and he was considered able-bodied when he could demonstrate that he knew the ropes as well as how to use them and look after them. There were two ways to get high on a sailing ship in the days of sail… One was persuading someone to give you their rum ration as well as your own and the other was to become an upper yardsman, demonstrating, through strength and agility that you could work the topgallants, royals and skyscraper or moonraker sails as they were often known.
Sails are furled and secured by working from the outer edge of the weather end of the yard — the opposite being the case when setting them. The hull and standing rigging parts of a fully-rigged ship.
Ropes which suspend the outer-quarters of the yards, and raise or lower them. BOWLINES are fastened on and near the middle of the leech of square sails, by two or three subordinate parts, called bridles; and are used to brace sideways, or close-haul to the wind, the weather, or windward, leeches of the sails forward; which are kept steady by the tension of the bowline. LIFE-LINES, for the preservation of the seamen, are worn hawser-laid rope: they make fast with two half hitches round the strap of the lift-block and jeer, or tye-blocks in the middle of the yard.
SLAB-LINE is a rope used to truss up the foot of the main and fore courses occasionally, for the pilot or master to look forward underneath, as the ship advances. SPILLING-LINES are ropes reeved through blocks, lashed on each side of the quarter-blocks of the lower yards, then lead down before the sail, return upwards under the foot, and make fast round the yard with a timber hitch: spilling-lines of topsails have two legs, which are each made fast with a timber-hitch round the quarters of the topsail yards, then lead down on the aftside, return upwards under the foot of the sail, and reeve through a block on the fore-side, lashed to the tye-block on the yard, and then lead upon deck abaft the mast.
TRACING-LINE is a small rope or tackle used to hoist any object to a higher station, and render it more convenient; such are the tracing-lines of the yard-tackles; the inner tracing-line hoists the block, and the outer tracing-line, the parts of the tackle.
An iron thimble spliced into the main-bowlines, and pointed over to hook a tackle to. A noose made in a rope. Unfurling them for setting, or for drying, when wet. An ash bar, fixed downwards from the fore-side of the bowsprit-cap, and by which the martingal-stay supports the jib-boom.
Long cylindrical pieces of timber, to which are fastened the yards, sails, and rigging. Coverings made of well tarred canvas to prevent the water going down the mast-hole. A cable-laid rope, used to heave in the cable. The spaces between the lines of a netting. A large knob, in the shape of a pear, formed on stays; also a smaller one round messengers, by intertwisting a small rope round the strands.
Taking several turns of spunyarn round the back and point of a hook, and fastening it, to prevent its unhooking. Braided cordage 12 or 14 feet long, used in heaving in the cable by the viol, or messenger.
A short wooden bar, with a head, used in one of the holes of the windlass, when there is little strain on the cable. Old ropes untwisted and picked small. Extending the several parts of a tackle, or ropes, connected to blocks or dead-eyes, to any distance required.
A rope made fast to the tack of the jib, to haul it out by. A rope secured to the bow of a boat to make her fast with. Wrapping worn canvas round ropes, to prepare them for serving. A sort of collar, by which the yards are fastened at the slings to the masts, so that they may be hoisted or lowered with facility.
Of parrals there are four sorts, viz. The first and second sorts are used for topsail and topgallant yards. Any rope fastened round the cat-head and fore-tack, to keep tight the leech of the sail in light winds. To let a cable or other rope run out of the vessel. The ropes by which the outer end of a gaff or yard, that hangs oblique to a mast, is hoisted. Large, but short, ropes which go over the mast-heads, and to which are hooked the main and fore tackles.
PINS, for belaying ropes to, are turned wooden pins, with a shoulder near the middle; the small end is driven through the rough tree rails, or racks of thin plank made on purpose. Iron belaying-pins are round, taper from the middle to each end, and are driven in the rails, or racks, to belay the ropes to, by taking several cross turns about them. Tapering the end of a rope, or splice, and working over the reduced part a small close netting, with an even number of knittles twisted from the same, to prevent the end untwisting, and to go more easily through a block or hole.
Short pieces of braided cordage plaited together. An additional rope employed, sometimes to support or answer the purpose: of another that has a great strain or is injured. A thick wreath, made of rope, fastened about the main and fore masts of a ship, to prevent their yards from falling down, when the ropes that support them are injured. Canvas nailed with sennit along the rough-tree-rail on the quarter-deck, and to the plank-sheer, to keep out the spray of the sea.
A short thin plank, with holes made through it, containing a number of belaying-pins, used instead of cleats: it is seized to the shrouds, and nailed over the bowsprit or windlass. A long shell, containing a number of sheaves, formerly fixed over the bowsprit to lead in the running rigging; at present, wooden saddles, with holes in them, are nailed on the bowsprit for this purpose, being more out of the way, and less liable to be out of order.
Fastening together the fall of a tackle, or any two ropes, by passing two or more cross turns with rope-yarn round each part, and as many round turns above them; making fast the ends with a reef-knot. Large cleats, with two arms, bolted in the waist of ships, to belay the tacks and sheets to.
Small ropes which cross the shrouds horizontally, at equal distances from the deck upwards, forming ladders to go up or down from the mast-heads. That portion of a sail contained between the head or foot, and a row of eyelet-holes parallel thereto, which portion is taken up to reduce the surface of the sail when the wind encreases.
Sails, according to their sizes, have from one to four reefs. To pass a rope through a block or hole. Short flat pieces of wood, having a hole near each end, through which the parral-rope is reeved. See BITS. See Ropes. An iron bolt, with a ring fitted in an eye in the end. Braided cordage, used to fasten the heads of sails to their respective yards. All cordage in general above one inch in circumference, which bear different names, according to their various uses.
In the middle of the rope is a diamond knot, and at the end a double wall knot, crowned. GUEST-ROPE is fastened to an eye-bolt in the ship's side, and to the outer end of a boom projecting from the ship's side, by guys, to keep the boats clear off the sides. One of the threads of which a rope is composed. A rail, breast high, along the sides of the poop and quarter-deck.
Serving the cable with worn rope, or sennit to secure it from chafing. Coverings made of well tarred canvas, to prevent the water from coming in at the rudder-hole. Small blocks of wood, hollowed on their lower and upper sides, and nailed on the yards and bowsprits, for retaining booms in a steady position. The lower-side is hollowed, to fit the convexity of the yard it is intended for; and the upper-side to the figure of the boom, as a channel for it to slide on.
SADDLES, on the bowsprit, for leading the rigging through, are semi-circles made to fit the convex surface of the bowsprit; they are rounded On the back, and have several holes made in the sides, through a which the rigging is led, when they are nailed to the inner part of the bowsprit, SAILS.
See the treatise on sails. Several rope yarns turned into a circular form, and marled together with spunyarn. It is used to attach the hook of a tackle to any rope, shroud, or stay, to extend, or set them up: two or more turns of the selvagee are taken round the same, in which the hook is fixed.
Braided cordage, formed of rope-yarn. A cylindrical piece of wood, with a handle in the middle: it is used for serving, and has a groove along the surface opposite to the handle, which fits the convexity of the rope to be served.
Loosing and expanding them. A sort of iron ring, to hook a tackle to. A short rope and chain bolted to the ship's sides, above the fore channels, to hang or secure the shank of an anchor to; the flukes resting in a chock on the gunwale.
A rope or tackle fastened to the clues of sails, to retain them in any direction. The number and size of the shrouds are in proportion to the size of the masts, as in the annexed Tables of Dimensions. To SLUE.
Its use to stays is, that one part may remain perfect and independent of the other, should it be shot away. A short rope, spliced together at the ends, and served with spunyarn, or covered with hide: it is seized to the size of the mast, leaving a bight to fit the lower end of a sprit, which it confines to the mast. Short ropes, having a block, thimble, or eye, spliced into each end; the middle is hitched round a mast, yard, gaff, cap, or stay, from whence the ends branch out. Spans are sometimes fastened at both ends, and have a block in the bight.
They are used to lead ropes through, which pass through the blocks or thimbles, to encrease power, or to prevent their swinging about. Confining them by ropes. Taking several turns with small rope round both runners abaft the mast, and frapping the turns. Small fir-trees. Joining one rope to another, by interweaving their ends, or uniting the end of a rope into another part of it. There are different sorts of splices, viz.
A small yard, or pole, by which spritsails are extended. The foot of it is fixed in a SNOTTER, which encircles the mast, and it crosses the sail diagonally, the upper end being attached to the peek. Two or more rope-yarns twisted together. A light pole on which the flags are hoisted. That part of a tackle which is made fast. Strong ropes, to support the masts forward, which extend from their upper part, at the mast-head, toward the fore part of the ship.
The shifting backstays change according to the action of the wind upon the sails, whether aft, or upon the quarter. Short ropes, which have their upper ends plaited and nailed round the yards: eyes made in their lower ends, through which the horses are reeved, to keep them parallel to the yards.
Small channels, fixed to the ship's sides, to contain the dead-eyes for the backstays. Several turns of spunyarn taken round the end of a rope, similar to a seizing, to fasten it to another rope. See YARDs. To let a cable, or rope, round a capstern slide up it, by gently slacking the part held on. To SWAY. To haul down upon a rope or cable. The after shrouds on each side of the main and fore masts: they are above all the other shrouds, and are used as an additional security to the masts.
SWIFTER is also a small rope used: to confine the bars of a capstern in their holes, while the men are heaving it about; and likewise a large rope, sometimes used lengthways round a boat under the gunwale, to strengthen it, and defend it from other boats which may strike against it. Stretching of them by tackles, to prevent any future extension. Pulling upon the middle of a tight rope that is made fast at both ends.
Ropes used to confine the foremost lower corners of courses, and of staysails, and other fore and aft sails; also the rope employed to haul out the lower corners of studdingsails. TACK is also applied to that part of a sail to which the tack is fastened. A line spliced into the eye at the bottom of the tabling, for securing the flag to the haliard. A machine formed by the connection of a rope or fall, with an assemblage of blocks.
The number of parts of the fall is more or less, in proportion to the effects intended to be produced. Tackles are used to raise, or remove, weighty bodies; to support the masts, extend the rigging, or expand the sails.
A tackle is a convenient kind of purchase, but subject to much friction. Its power will be, the friction not considered, as the number of parts of the fall that are applied to sustain the weigh. If a tackle consists of a double and a single block, and the weight to be hoisted is hung to the double block, there will be four parts of the fall; and the weight resting upon four ropes, equally stretched, each must bear the same part of the weight.
Thus, suppose the weight hung to the double block be four hundred, then one hundred applied to the hauling part of the fall will suspend it; and if as much more power be applied as will overcome the friction, it will purchase the weight: but, had the weight been hooked to the single block, it would have rested on three ropes only, each of which would bear a third of the weight; therefore a third of the weight being applied to the hoisting part of the fall, would suspend the weight, when hooked to the single block; and as much more power being applied as will overcome the friction, would purchase the weight.
Ropes, if tight laid, will not easily bend round small sheaves, but will take up a considerable part of the power to force them into their proper direction; hence it follows, that blocks with small pins, large sheaves, and slack-laid ropes, are the best materials to obviate friction, and make tackles with.
The blocks that are fixed, are only for the convenience of turning the direction of the fall, they add nothing to the power of the purchase, but, on the contrary, destroy so much as is necessary to overcome their friction, and are therefore to be avoided as much as possible. Boom TACKLES are composed of double and single blocks, strapped, with tails, and are used in getting the studding-sail-booms in or out. REEF TACKLES are composed of two double, or two single, blocks; one block is spliced into a pendent, and the other is strapped, with an eye: they are used to draw the extremities of the reefs close up to the yard-arms, for reefing the sail.
RUNNER TACKLES are composed of double and single blocks, and a pendent; the lower blocks are strapped, with a hook and thimble: they are used to set up the shrouds, and to get the mast-heads forward, for staying the masts. The pendent, formerly, travelled on the stay, by iron thimbles; but this is now discontinued in the Royal Navy, they much injured the stay, by the friction. YARD TACKLES are composed of double and single blocks; the double blocks are spliced into the lower ends of pendents, and the single blocks are strapped, with hooks and thimbles: they are used to hoist the boats in or out.
That end of the rope of a tackle which is bowsed on, or the rope which composes the tackle. The long end of a block-strap, by which the block is attached to any place required. To step out on the topgallant or royal yards you need to climb beyond the 2nd platform. Up here the view of the deck is starting to look a long way away. The wind feels much stronger and the roll of the ship is more exaggerated. If your heart is not pounding now then you are a cool customer. Every time you go aloft, the rigging can be in a different configuration.
The gap between ratlines and footrope can be quite a step for little legs. If the yards are braced up sharp then being small is an advantage if you have to wiggle through a tight spot.
Like rock climbing you have to look ahead and plan your route skywards to suit the conditions. There may be a time when your watch leader is looking for volunteers to go aloft at night, so try and memorise your favourite moves around the tricky bits.
Ships masts are designed to be giant climbing frames. No shortage of voyages where you can attempt your goal, and experience a whole load more. Ring our skippers if the choice is just too confusing.
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